The waves had a bit of kick out there and I had fun despite not getting in a warm-up surf,
It all came down to one wave. There`s not much you can do when the luck doesn`t go your way.
It`s a pretty bizarre scene here with a freeway built right over the sand. I spun out looking back in from the line-up. The Japanese people are really cool too. They run around all day snapping off photos. They love surfing and they love us coming here.
It`s all a little bit disappointing at the moment,